Because of those herby qualities, rosemarys used with only the lightest touch in female perfumes, though more widely in so-called mens scents. Paco Rabanne Ultraviolet The history of incense itself goes back thousands of years in fact, the first perfumes were burned, not worn: perfume actually gets its name from per fumum, or through smoke. Numbers of musk deer dwindled, unsurprisingly, because it took 140 musk deer to produce a kilo of perfume ingredient. Beauty The 35 Best Perfumes for Women for Every Occasion Get ready to meet your new signature scent. That whoosh of uplifting zestiness is precisely why perfumers love to use it: as a sweet, refreshing, sadly fleeting top note, very often in colognes but also in Ambre and fruity-floral scents. But its use goes way back: musk makes its first appearance in the 6th Century, brought from India by Greek explorers. Technically, heliotrope can be still extracted by maceration (or through solvent extraction, the modern form of enfleurage), an echo of those times - but today its synthetic heliotropin read about it here which perfumers rely on. ", Wood from a resinous South American tree, the oil of which used in perfumery, "Guaiac wood oil is a warm, woody note with balsamic notes and a central smoky feature. This scent comes from the oil itself that has been compounded through distillation (typically steam). Givenchy Ysatis Most of us are unlikely to smell it growing wild, but apparently its deliciously, delicately sweet, in flower form. With their sweet and vanilla-y softness, quite a few gourmand fragrances list sugar as a note. Its use in perfumery goes back millennia: galbanum appears in the Old Testament as an ingredient in holy incense, and was an ingredient of the Egyptian perfume Metopian. A flower employed widely in perfumery. By Kilian Beyond Love "Because they are so long-lasting, musk is often the note that lingers on the skin after all the other notes have disappeared.". Givenchy Very Irresistible Miller Harris Jasmin Vert. Davidoff Cool Water Woman Its mostly the foliage (from trees grown in the Atlas mountains of Morocco, or Virginia in the USA) that is steam-distilled to produce the intense oil, which is also used in aromatherapy for calming and balancing. Serge LutensL`Eau Serge Lutens It isnt just the fruit thats used: apple blossom gives a soft, floral air to fragrances and lately, theres been a trend to using something called an apple tree note: in fact, a synthetic, fantasy ingredient which delivers a fruity-woodiness. By Kilian Pure Oud Though production of these colognes and perfumes are mostly abroad, the Philippines is a great source of supply for the most common scents the world's most popular brands use. Serge LutensUn Bois de Vanille, As you might imagine, a perfume ingredient extracted from one of our sturdiest trees adds a bit of heft to a scented creation: dry, woody, grounding. But in the hands of a gifted nose? "These vanilla 'beans' are aged and then extracted to make an infusion or an absolute which is used in flavors and fragrances to impart its unique creamy sweetness. Many windowsills boast an aloe vera plant, so useful for treating burns (including sunburn) but outside this cosmetic use, this perennial succulent plant is also very occasionally - used as a note in perfumery: green, vegetal, fresh and aquatic. Their products have unique scents with zero toxic or environmentally harmful ingredients. Yes, if we eat it: nectarines are of course smooth-skinned, and have a whiter flesh. Our love of cinnamon dates back thousands of years: 2000 years ago the Egyptians were weaving it into perfumes (though it probably originates way before that, in China). So although honeysuckles dried flowers are used in sachets and pot pourri, its mostly a synthetic version youll encounter twining its way through perfume compositions. Este Lauder Youth Dew Frederic MalleNoir Epices, Smell carnation in a scent? "Typically musks add texture to fragrances and give them depth," says Illolahia. Osmanthus also works beautifully in leathery, suede-like scents, as well as florals. Unique in perfumery for its fruity and animalic facets, Osmanthus is known for having honey and apricot notes and lending a velvety touch to a composition," says Reilly. A heavy, full-bodied, powdery, warm fragrance note, amber oil comes from the Baltic amber tree. The fragrance note itself is synthetically created, adding a touch of syrupy bitter-sweetness most often, as weve said, to gourmand perfumes. Poets Narcissus, or Narcissus poeticus) is native to Europe, and growers cultivate it in the Netherlands and the Grasse area of France, extracting an oil which smells like a blend of jasmine and hyacinth. Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire (Some people think it smells like crushed ivy leaves. Intoxicating, hallucinogenic, life-threatening plants yes, truly angels trumpet (a.k.a. Clinique Calyx As they have for thousands of years, these deciduous trees grow (impressively fast) in the Mediterranean and the Middle East although the fig note we smell in contemporary fragrances is actually quite likely to be synthetic, from ingredients which go by the name of stemone (it smells very green, and is produced by the fragrance house Givaudan) and octalactone gamma (more prune-like and sappy). In fact, there are hundreds of species of geranium, with scents that conjure up many other plants: lemon, apple, lime, mint, orange, rose, citronella, camphor, pineapple, sage and more. But we do know that the Arabs brought this evergreen tree to Europe in around the 8th Century; lemon later made its way to America through seeds carried on Christopher Columbuss ship, in 1493. Floris Wedding Bouquet And so, Amaretto (the drink) was born. Givenchy Very Irresistible LIntense Goutal Rose Pompon Its a special treat and its packed with sunshine. Theres an entire book dedicated to the story of ambergris:Floating Gold. There are many different varieties of this Mediterranean shrub, but today its the flower tops of Garden Thyme (a.k.a. Well, yes: the fragrant use of olive goes back millennia: the early Arab perfume-makers used it as a base in many of their scented creations, and the Egyptians used it to steep jasmine blossoms, to produce a fragrant oil. Dior La Collection Couturier Parfumeur Leather Oud Maison Francis Kurkdjian Lumire Noire Pour Femme It would be nice to think that spritzing on a scent featuring this delicious, little-known ingredient worked the same way. Crabtree & Evelyn Nadiora This process produces a highly potent smell based on the plant that is used. (Which basically means it makes some other ingredients work better together). Miller Harris Fleur de Sel. Calvin Klein Euphoria Collection of oudh from natural forests is now illegal under CITES (the Convention on International Trade in Endanged Species of Wild Fauna and Flora), but some is now beginning to be plantation grown in Vietnam. Michael Kors Island it actually stops minor wounds bleeding.) Some flower just once a year, for a single night a blink-and-youll-miss-it pleasure that happily can be captured in a bottle and enjoyed 24/7, Dior Addict Angelica gives a musk-like, green, aromatic odour although today, its also synthesised, and used as a fixative and synergist. Karo-karounde (also sometimes written as karo-karunde) is considered to be an aphrodisiac and is used in the rituals of sexual magic, in the Congo! Since ancient times, the opium poppy has been regarded as a symbol of nocturnal decadence, intrigue but also, with healing powers. L'Oreal is one of the companies that dictate perfume industry stats by owning various famous fragrance brands. Dont ask me why but it seems to fix itperfectly and it calms the hyperactive lavender. (The other gifts were of course myrrh another fragrance ingredient and gold. Apples have been a part of fragrance creation right back to the medieval era of Arab perfumery. Its a fantasy note, of course: as perfumer Christine Nagel explains, 'Sugar doesn't exist in perfumery - but sugary facets can be found in synthetic notes called maltol and ethyl maltol'; that sweet and caramel tone is very much used in perfumer, these days. Penhaligons Artemisia (And weve noticed that lately its having a moment in the sun in the form of olive leaf tea, packed with health-giving antioxidants.) Balmain Ivoire The scent can also be extracted from the so-pretty bunched variety Narcissus tazetta is native to southern Europe and now also grown widely across Asia, the Middle East, north Africa, northern India, China and Japan. Calvin Klein Escape Its a sensory experience: that candied breath of sugar. But although cannabis has a famously strong, aromatic, herbal, sometimes nutty or grassy vibe (and occasionally skunky and animalic, even), its probably present in fragrances more for its shock/publicity factor than for any genuine narcotic quality it brings. Ferns have actually given their name to an entire category of fragrances: fougre. LancmeTrsor (Its also, rather usefully, anti-microbial and anti-flatulant though not in perfume!). Noses know to tread v-e-r-y carefully with this most bracing, potent note which can all-too-easily conjure up mothballs, or cough medicine, or Vicks chest rub. Este Lauder Pleasures Like quite a few flowers, daisys used more for conjuring up an image in a perfume than for the actual smell. Guavas themselves, we find, dont travel well: best enjoyed in a tropical setting at the peak of their ripeness. As an alternative, perfumers have turned to synthetic oud, although trained noses will tell you that it smells plainer, woody and leathery but without the warm, balsamic qualities. You wouldnt love the smell of hemlock if you got up-close-and-personal and youd be unwise to do that, as its a seriously poisonous plant: in Ancient Greece, hemlock was the poison used to execute prisoners (including the renowned philosopher Socrates). Ingredients - The Perfume Society Ingredients Fragrances today are mostly a fusion of ingredients taken from nature - or inspired by nature - together with the synthetics (man-made ingredients) that are used to make them last longer, 'carry further', or stay 'true', when worn on the skin. Miller Harris Terre de Bois, Deadly nightshade. Floris A Rose For The task of the rose-picker is to pick the dew-drenched blooms before 10 a.m. at the latest, when the sun evaporates their exquisite magic. (Its also used in vermouth.) See our brands. The bounteous bitter orange plant where would perfumery be without it? Mariah Carey M. There are dozens of species of evergreen in the pine/fir family and the essential oils produced by each of them have subtly different qualities. Chanel No. It originated in India, Malaysia and Indonesia and made its way to the Middle East via the exotic silk route: patchouli is a fantastic insect repellent, effective against flies and other bugs. Jo Malone London English Pear & Freesia Max Mara Max Mara I sometimeswonder why the combination of fruits and berries with flowers are soenchanting. 1 Ginger Essence & White Tea, Beavers anal glands. Citron is French for lemon. To extract the deep, sweet woodiness, wood or root chippings are steam-distilled. (Do please completely ignore the word rose in its name.). Tolu resin is tapped from the trunks of the tall Myroxylon toluiferum tree, which mostly grows in South America and the West Indies: small incisions are made in the bark, from which thick yellow-brown drops are collected. It's a combination of synthetic and natural ingredients such as vanilla, patchouli, labdanum, styrax, and benzoin," says Medina. Even more confusingly, the perfume ingredient doesnt even come from amber itself that time-hardened resin of Pinus succinifera, which is often shaped into jewellery. (The perfumes creator is on record as saying that without ylang-ylang in the formula, he couldnt have used such a high dose of the champagne-like aldehydes that give No. In my perfumes, I love it - like a synthetic aldehyde - as it switches the light on, brings out the colours and contrasts. Kenzo Amour (The best oil, though, is said to come from Tunisia, where Jean-Paul Guerlain has his own bitter orange grove) During the distillation process, a beautifully scented waters also produced, which makes its way into floral waters and flavourings. Iso E Supers said to help personalise fragrances, creating an almost bespoke effect when theyre applied to the wearers skin. This product of the galbanum plant is used as a top note, instead and some very famous fragrances (see below) get their character from this VIP perfume ingredient most notably Chanels No. Learn about our 4 - step product safety process. They found that: "Many of the personal care products we tested contained more hazardous chemicals than the cleaning products we tested.". Crabtree & Evelyn Lily Isnt it hard to imagine that a plant so green and wafty can produce a scent thats so deep and resinous. Givenchy Pi Jo Malone London Grapefruit (A tradition wed quite like to see revived!). Orange blossom and neroli are a bit confusing, as ingredients. ), This flowering vine was originally native to the south of India, where its long been used in Ayurvedic medicine. (Which weve filed under F.) Bvlgari BLV An annual-flowering member of the borage family, also known as cherry pie flower, youll often find Heliotropium arborescens on sale in nurseries and garden centres for summer bedding (and you can create a wonderfully scented display with the plants, which butterflies will also love). Hey, presto: Mitsouko probably the most famous chypre in the world still available today is restored to its former glory. Its earthy. Donna KaranBlack Cashmere Short for rumbullion or rumbustion, slang words which meant tumult or uproar (which can be what happens after one rum cocktail too many, even now). Atelier Cologne Trefle Pure When the Iranian revolution broke out in 1979, the oil supply dried up and Chanels perfumer faced the challenge of reworking this iconic scent. DKNY Energising for Women What is eau de saucepan (or aeroplane wing) doing in fragrance? And Anthemis nobilis Roman camomile, English camomile, true camomile, call it what you will is sweet and heady, though also with an apple-iness. Harvesting techniques have become somewhat more sophisticated since the time when labdanum was collected from the coats and beards of sheep and goats that grazed on these tough little shrubs! (We think of it as cheerfulness, bottled. James Heeley Cardinal ), to lighten the woodiness. Serge Lutens Fleur dOranger (See also cherry blossom, a floral note.) An aroma compound that has a soft, radiant jasmine aroma, hedoine was synthesized in the late 1950s. LArtisan Parfumeur Mon Numero 4 As with many fruit ingredients, grapes are having their moment in the sun, thanks to fragrance fashion. Galbanum oil immediately brings sophistication to a perfume, thanks to its combination of earthy, floral hyacinth tonalities, and a bitterness evocative of gentian," says perfumer Jean-Christophe Hrault. Unlike rose or jasmine, which are more familiar, you may never have smelled a magnolia up close but this family of flowering trees is worth sniffing out, especially the Magnolia grandiflorum variety. But nowadays, synthetic musks have widely replaced ambrette, on grounds of its priciness. Its actually a natural aroma chemical found in roses, but also citronella, geranium, palmarosa, petitgrain, eucalyptus. Interestingly, the Thierry Mugler brand now says its ageing its fragrances in wood casks an echo of the wine and spirits world, By Kilian Back to Black "Over the past twenty years, oud has become a phenomenon in Anglo perfumery. Miller Harris Fleur de Sel Theres a touch of lilac about this feminine perfume note but a slightly spicy undertone that adds intrigue, at the same time, reminiscent of the cloviness of carnation. You cant shake a real cocktail into a scent, of course so the drink has been conjured up synthetically as a fantasy fragrance ingredient to give a sense of sparkling, crisp peachiness. (Although some gifted natural perfumers manage recreate the smell of honeysuckle through clever alchemy of other naturals) Depending on the other notes used, it can enhance a touch of aniseed, blend romantically with other white florals orange blossom and jasmine or add a fresh green note, GoutalParis Eau de Camille Penhaligons Orange Blossom But Illolahia adds that musk "is rarely used today because musk deer are endangered," and that chemists have been refining synthetic alternatives since the late 19thcentury. The attar of roses which is produced is powerful and expensive and no wonder: it takes around 40,000 rose flowers to produce one 10 g bottle of rose attar. The citrus essences are expressed or . Violet flowers smell soft, powdery and romantic, a little like iris, and are can be played up to create a very feminine fragrance. The juice tastes less sour than lemon, but more bitter than grapefruit which explains why bergamot has become known for its aromatic essential oil, rather than as something we eat for breakfast (Although bergamot is used in Earl Grey tea), Its scent is fruity-sweet with mild spicy hints, and youll encounter it as a top note in compositions within most of the fragrance families male and female. Grasse jasmine contains the highest natural levels of indole one of the reasons its the priciest jasmine in the world. But pine can also be wonderful crisp, spicy, outdoorsy and invigorating and its been closely linked to perfume creation since the time of the early Arab perfumers, who liked it in combination with frankincense, in particular. Geraniols used in perfumery to extend the scent of roses, bringing sheer, floral freshness to blends. They are French too, which means they are highly respected in the business. ChloLove, ChloEau Florale Comme des Garons 2 David & Victoria Beckham Instinct It gets its name from the Spanish word vaina (meaning sheath or pod, and translates simply as little pod. When the leaves and twigs are distilled alongside the flowers, you have whats referred to as petitgrain sur le fleur. Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Dior Diorama The clear, almost colourless oil is steam-distilled from the fresh or partly-dried pods, and the spiciness of the resulting oil goes especially well in Ambre-style perfumes, working well alongside cardamom, bay, coriander, lavender, neroli, orange, petitgrain, mandarin, cedarwood and rosewood. Guerlain Cuir Beluga Mimosa has a long tradition in perfumery: it was first used in making incense, and symbolised resurrection and immortality: Egyptian mythology linked the acacia tree with the tree of life, described in the Myth of Osiris and Isis. Este Lauder Private Collection (Its still widely used in religious rites, across different cultures and has become very widespread in our homes, in the form of burning sticks and joss-sticks.). Review of Chanel No. In perfumery, date is used as a fruitily sweet fantasy note especially in gourmand fragrances giving a drizzle of caramel, honeyed, buttery sweetness. 19. Este Lauder Private Collection Today, of course, its not the natural stuff that perfumers use, but a huge array of synthetic musks, ranging from sweet, powdery musks to almost metallic versions. Each eclectic scent is packaged in a biodegradable pulp carton - a first in the beauty world - with an embossed lid made from recyclable paper packaging. According to romantic legend, the name Iris comes from the Greek rainbow goddess Irida, who used a rainbow to slide from sky to earth, bringing the will of the Olympic Gods to share with mere mortals. But why the high price? Perfume Reviews. When a French colonist later came upon a plant in the West Indies that smelled just like that perfume the Plumeira alba plant he named it frangipani. Its incredibly versatile, in a perfumers hands: it softens, balances, fixes (adds staying power and keeps a fragrance on the skin, while stopping other short-lived ingredients from disappearing too fast). Theyre also edible, should you ever find yourself in front of the actual tree (Robinia pseudoacacia). From that rotten wood, an oil is made and then blended into perfume. Thierry Mugler Angel "Muguet is a wildflower growing in the undergrowth, and its scent cant be captured naturally despite its sublime power," says perfumer Domitille Michalon-Bertier. There is a wood line. (A reference to the shape of the fruit.) Most famous as a recreational drug, the fibres of the plant can be woven into tough cloth hemp and every part of the flower is edible: hemp seed oil is highly nutritious, and great for skin, too (internally and externally). The Three Kings famously presented frankincense as one of the gifts to Baby Jesus: THATs how far back frankincense goes. Quite aside from its uplifting qualities, yuzu is very useful to perfumers because it prolongs the life of other citrus notes, whose delicious freshness doesnt tend to linger for long. Lets call them "raspberry coup". Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gioia Essenza Although ink-y notes can come from natural materials like oakmoss, it generally isnt really ink that youll smell in a scent. Dior Diorissimo Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan FragonardJust un Baiser Chanel No. Sprinkle it on your smoked salmon. Nowadays, perfumers have to work ever-harder to create a point of difference. Memo Sundance Clarins Sunshine fragrance Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire An animalistic secretion from the Castor beaver used to impart a leathery aroma to a fragrance, it is often reproduced synthetically. It is the most natural musk sensuality," says perfumer Pascal Gaurin. Ferns have actually given their name to an entire category of fragrances fougre. Of it as cheerfulness, bottled: musk makes its first appearance in the late 1950s ask me but... Should you ever find yourself in front of the reasons its the priciest jasmine in the.... Ayurvedic medicine experience: that candied breath of sugar scents, as well as florals dictate... 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